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Carol's Daughter sulfate-free shampoos

Why Sulfate-Free Shampoo For Natural Hair Is a Must

Sulfate-free shampoo is more than just a buzzy hair cleansing category. Switching to these gentler natural hair products can help improve the health of your curls without compromising the ability to remove excess oil and product build up.
13 Jul 2021
Sulfate-free hair products are often recommended for natural hair, with sulfate-free shampoo leading the pack. But what is sulfate-free shampoo, and why do sulfates get such a bad rap when it comes to hair care? Well, there’s a lot to unpack in those questions, and we should start from the beginning. Here’s everything you need to know about sulfates, including why we’re recommending adding sulfate-free shampoo for Black hair to your beauty product shopping list.

What Are Sulfates?

Let’s start with the basics. What are sulfates? Sulfates are a type of detergent or surfactant that can be found in a number of products that you probably use nearly every day, including face cleansers, body wash, toothpaste, and shampoo. The common thread is that all of these types of products are cleansers of some sort.

Sulfates play two roles in your products: The main purpose is to clean, while the other is experiential. They are primarily used because of their ability to attract both oil and water, leading to a deep cleansing. They also contribute to your cleansing experience because, when added to a product, they help create a lather. This lather is associated with getting clean and offers a major sensorial effect that makes it hard to give up.

Sulfate-free routines and products have gained popularity in recent years, with sulfates widely being considered “bad.” But is that the case? From what you just read, they sound like they could be useful, so let’s get into it.

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Are All Sulfates Bad?

There are several different types of sulfates that you may see listed on your beauty products. The three main ones you can expect to spot frequently are sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate. Others to take note of are TEA Lauryl Sulfate, TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate, and Sodium Alkylbenzene Sulfonate.

The reason sulfates have gained their current reputation is due to the fact that they can clean almost too well. Not only do they get rid of impurities on your hair and skin, but they can be overly harsh and strip away essential oils. The result? Dryness.

While sulfates certainly serve a purpose, they may have effects you aren’t interested in. Keep in mind that the three main sulfates we mentioned above are the same ones used in powerful household cleaners and detergents. Of course, not all sulfates are the same; one sulfate may be a lot gentler than another. Think of it like a liquid soap for a machine versus one that you’d use to handwash. The one for handwashing will be milder on your hands.

Sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate are all meant to break up oil, grease, and grime chemically with little mechanical action. This means you don’t have to scrub as hard; the sulfates do the work. There are benefits to this, the main one being that it creates a lot less friction and tugging on whichever surface the sulfates come into contact with—like your hair. Your hair is at its most fragile when wet. Excess rubbing of water-soaked hair can cause breakage. Not having to create friction and potential damage is appealing, but the level of clean that these three sulfates provide isn’t always necessary.

Outside of the sulfates we’ve mentioned already, there are others that are known to be less harsh. These include Sodium Cocyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Socoyl (or lauryl/lauroyl) Sarcosinate, Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Methyl Cocoyl or Lauryl Taurate, and Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate.

What Is Sulfate-Free Shampoo?

With your intro to sulfates—the good and bad—out of the way, we can focus on a major question: What is sulfate-free shampoo? Well, you might have already figured this one out. A sulfate-free shampoo is simply a shampoo that’s free of all those sulfates we talked about earlier.

The best sulfate-free shampoos generally don’t lather, or lather less than a shampoo with sulfates, but they get your hair just as clean. The difference is, they won’t strip your strands of anything they shouldn’t.

Your hair and scalp develop sebum and other buildup from things like sweat and the oils your body naturally produces. The cleansers in your shampoo are responsible for breaking down those oils, dirt, and debris so that they can be rinsed away, and sulfates are a common cleanser used for this purpose. But your hair needs oil to help hydrate and seal in moisture, so you don’t want to wash it all away.

With that said, does sulfate shampoo dry out hair? Since sulfate shampoo really is getting your hair squeaky clean, stripping both bad and good oils from your hair, it can be very drying. That’s where sulfate-free shampoo comes in. You may still be wondering, what does sulfate-free shampoo do for your hair? Well, opposite of what was just described. But just because a shampoo formula is void of sulfates doesn’t mean you can’t achieve the same level of cleanness. Many of the best sulfate-free shampoos, including the Coco Creme Sulfate Free Shampoo, use alternative surfactants like coconut-based cleansers to remove dirt and excess oil just as effectively as a sulfate-based shampoo.

Editor’s note: What about sulfate-free conditioner? A sulfate-free conditioner is nothing more than a conditioner without sulfates, but keep in mind that this type of product is typically sulfate-free already. This is because you don’t use it to cleanse. Still, you may come across some conditioners that don’t adhere to this standard. If you’re using a shampoo without sulfates, it’s wise to find a coordinating conditioner. Usually, if a shampoo is sulfate-free, the conditioner from the same system will be, too!

Is Sulfate-Free Shampoo Good For Natural Hair?

Using sulfate-free shampoo for natural hair makes all the sense in the world. See, curls tend to be the driest hair texture because of the way they are shaped. It’s easy for natural oils from the scalp to make their way from root to tip on straight strands. However, with curls, the spiral creates somewhat of a maze effect, and oils can get trapped near the root instead of being evenly dispersed through the full length of each strand.

With a natural challenge of retaining moisture, curly hair can’t afford any additional stripping from harsh cleansing agents like sulfates. This is also one of the reasons many people with curls skip shampoo altogether for a co-wash or cleansing conditioner. Stripping oils from the scalp can also lead to even further dryness and possibly breakage.

Since we’re focusing on shampoos in particular here, you may still be wondering, does sulfate shampoo dry out hair? The answer is yes. The chemical makeup of sulfates is drying on any hair texture, not just curls. So when possible, avoid products that include sulfates in their formulas.

The lather in sulfate shampoos may feel like you’re getting natural hair clean, but in reality, it’s removing what your hair needs. And the truth is, it is possible to get a deep clean without harsh chemicals like sulfates. Building up a lot of lather isn’t necessary for washing your hair effectively, nor is lather exclusive to sulfates. If sudsing up isn’t something you can do without, sulfate-free shampoos can be formulated with other ingredients to create the lather you’re used to. The bottom line is, sulfate-free shampoo can be a great choice for natural hair. Without sulfates, you’re able to get your curls clean and let them keep the natural oils that are so critical.

Sulfate Alternatives For Natural Hair

As previously mentioned, sulfates are surfactants that scrub away dirt, oil, and debris from hair. With this in mind, there are alternatives, most commonly coconut-based cleansers that have the same effect on hair, without stripping strands of their natural oils. You may still see the term Sodium Lauryl, but it’s what comes after in the ingredient name (for example Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) which determines the type of cleanser being used. This is what matters most.

There are shampoos with mild cleansing agents like the Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine and Sodium Cocoul Isethionate (a coconut oil-derived cleansing agent) that do this while simultaneously infusing hair with nourishing ingredients—it’s the best of both worlds.

In products like the Monoi Repairing Sulfate Free Shampoo, coconut and palm oils are used as both cleansers and foaming agents, so you get the same sensorial and deep cleaning experience as a sulfate shampoo—without removing much-needed moisture from your curls. The same is true for the Sacred Tiare Sulfate-Free Shampoo, which features the same cleansing ingredients but also has hydrating glycerin and coconut oil to replenish moisture.

How Does Sulfate-Free Shampoo Clean Hair?

If you’re not convinced that sulfate-free shampoo can really get your hair clean, you may have to try one to see for yourself. Shampoos without sulfates do clean your hair. Thanks to new ingredient finds, you can get the same clean results as you would using sulfate shampoo but with significantly less dry out. The making of a good sulfate-free shampoo is one that can actually emulsify or break down the dirt and oil on your strands and scalp.

What Are The Best Sulfate-Free Shampoos For Natural Hair?

Starting to think shampoo without sulfates deserves a spot in your shower routine? Us too! Below, we’re singing the praises of seven of our best sulfate-free shampoos for natural hair.

Wash Day Delight Sulfate-Free Shampoo For Curly Hair: You may be familiar with micellar water in skincare, but this micellar shampoo transforms from a water-like consistency to a foam—yep, you still get a great lather—to leave hair super clean and surprisingly soft.

Monoi Repairing Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Infused with coconut-derived cleansers instead of sulfates, this shampoo is gentle enough for anyone and can be used to get a good lather—just massage it onto your scalp until you see those suds.

Sacred Tiare Sulfate-Free Shampoo: When your precious curls won’t stop breaking, a fortifying shampoo is in order. And no, that doesn’t mean you need sulfates! This sulfate-free option moisturizes and strengthens hair with the help of coprah coconut oil, shea butter, and vegetable protein.

Almond Milk Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Formulated with almond milk and without sulfates, this shampoo is ideal for extremely damaged and over-processed strands. Prepare to be wowed by how well it reverses damage and restores softness.

Hair Milk Cleansing Conditioner: Those who prefer or need more moisturizing than cleansing will benefit from this formula. It taps nourishing biotin, hydrating shea butter, and protecting vitamin E to condition curls as it cleans.

Cactus Rose Water Sulfate-Free Shampoo: For textured hair that’s fine and falling flat, this sulfate-free shampoo for Black hair gently cleanses, boosts volume, adds lightweight moisture, and helps hair hold long-lasting body.

Black Vanilla Moisturizing Sulfate-Free Shampoo Bar: Made for dry and brittle textures, this new format of cleansing doles out the same level of clean and moisture-retention as its liquid counterpart.

Best Sulfate-Free Shampoos For Natural Hair


What Happens When You Switch To Sulfate-Free Shampoo?

Over time, switching to a sulfate-free shampoo should yield good results for any curl pattern. By eliminating ingredients that strip moisture from hair, your curls will start to look and feel more hydrated, soft, and defined. You may find the need to switch up the rest of your regimen, but as your hair retains more moisture, ease into testing out new products that can potentially weigh your curls down.

The change to your cleansing lineup may also mean getting away with washing less often. Depending on what you use to style, you may still feel the need to remove some product in between protective styles, but by changing your cleanser to a sulfate-free formula you won’t have to worry as much about restoring moisture in the process.

How to Use Shampoo Without Sulfates

Does sulfate-free shampoo require a routine of its own? Not quite. You’ll wash your hair just the same, making sure to follow up with a sulfate-free conditioner, too. For a refresher on how to wash your hair, read our article: How To Wash Curly Hair (and How Often To Do It).

Should You Avoid Shampoos with Sulfates?

Time to wrap things up! If you’re still wondering if you should ditch sulfates completely, that depends on you and your mane. We don’t recommend sulfates for curly and textured hair for the reasons we’ve discussed—namely increased dryness. Other hair types may find that sulfates work for them, and we won’t tell you to completely revamp your routine. But if you find your hair is looking dry or dull, it may be time to avoid shampoo with sulfates and make the switch to one of the best sulfate-free shampoo options we’ve recommended here.

Next up: Once you’ve safely cleansed, you can Pamper Your Curls with These Hair Masks.

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